An Unorthodox Breeding Method
Stan Richardson
Right at the start, I would like to
stress that I do not advise the following method of breeding exhibition
budgerigars to the beginner. I believe all should serve an apprenticeship in
birdroom control and breeding management, before embarking on any form of
breeding plan to improve visual features. But then, that is only my opinion.
However you must learn to recognize warning signs within your stud, that all is
not well, as well as being able to overcome the problems that one can encounter,
even during a good breeding season.
I first used this unorthodox method
back in the late 1950s and it helped me to establish a useful exhibition stud,
for a reasonable financial outlay, I also used it on my return to the fancy in
1968 and again in 1983. If you have unlimited cash resources, you will have no
need to adopt this practice, as you will be able to purchase suitable breeding
stock. For those with limited means, it is one way of trying to overcome the
problem of building up a stock of useful birds; it does not guarantee success,
nothing in live-stock breeding ever does, you still need that touch of luck.
First you need to obtain reasonable
stock from successful local exhibitors for a modest outlay, breed with these
birds and learn the finer points about the husbandry associated with breeding
budgerigars. It is remarkable just how much there is to learn.
Good Stock Hens
From the young bred keep the best of
the hens and disposed of the rest. Now you will have to purchase the cocks you
need, they do not have to be show winners, but they must exhibit some good
features. Each one, in general, excelling in a particular show feature and
hopefully not lacking too much in other areas, the more good features you can
get in one bird the better. Each of the cocks to be run with three hens each in
the first round and if all goes well they could be paired to further hens once
the first rounds are under way and cages are available.
Perching positions
About one month prior to pairing up, I
like to spend as much time as possible studying the hens and decide which hens
are to go with the individual cocks, I also look for signs of the hens coming
into true breeding condition, other than the usual wood gnawing. I want a hen
that is very alert and active all the time, especially those that are bickering
over perching positions. I leave out any hens that have spasmodic periods of
alertness. I have found that these types are usually unreliable. I also look
over the cocks, but in general, if they are through the moult, they are usually
ready to go to nest..
Pairing
Nestboxes are up in position and half
filled with sawdust, the birds have access right from the start. The cocks are
put up with their first hen and I have found that if the birds are in breeding
condition they will usually accept their mates, sometimes mating occurs right
away, however seeing them mate is not essential, but I do like the cock to be
active and forceful. As for the hens, I do not mind a bit of bickering and
initial refusal, but I draw the line at the hen going in feet first. This
usually indicates that she is not quite ready and I return her to the flight and
try again later.
I pair up early in the day and leave
the cocks with the first hen till the evening, when I then introduce them to hen
number two. The following morning I put them with the third hen. The cock is
then moved twice a day until the sixth egg, and then he is returned to the
flight. The hens being left to rear on their own.
You must keep a strict record of the
cock bird's movement from one cage to another. If you do not keep good records
you can find that you will easily become confused. You must also be able to
devote quite a bit of time to the cock's management, because if you rush, you
will put him in the wrong cage and I speak from experience.
This means that you wind up with two
nests of young that you cannot account for accurately when it comes to the
pedigree. You will also have to watch the hens closely. If one does not sit, you
will have to move the eggs. This year I had several hens that did not sit until
four eggs were laid. In these cases I always substitute the eggs with marbles. I
also do the same if eggs get scrambled and I have found that by using marbles,
it is invariably the cock who does the damage.
Records
All eggs are marked with a felt marker
pen and I have not found any significant disadvantage with regard to
hatchability. I do get addled eggs and dead-in-shell but no more than others who
do not mark eggs. If chicks have to be moved before they are rung, I mark them
on the side of each leg. I have found that the down on the legs retains the ink
better than anywhere else on the body, although you will have to apply it
morning and night to be on the safe side!
No matter how careful you are, you
will still have problems. For example, I moved an egg to another nest. This egg
was due to hatch two days after the last egg in the nest it was moved to.
However both eggs hatched the same day and I wound up with two chicks which I
cannot be sure of in regard to their exact pedigree. (Note: I know who the cock
bird is, as I always move eggs, if possible, to another hen he has been paired
with; it is the mother's side that lets me down.) Of course if the two young
turn out to be inferior specimens you have no problem, but as is usual in this
hobby of ours, it is often the best birds that are involved in any mishap that
occurs.
Demand on the hens
I always try and limited the number of
young in the nest, when hens are rearing on their own, to three, but sometimes
due to certain problems and also good results with regard to the number of
chicks hatched, I have had to leave the hens raising four chicks each. I decided
it would be safe to do this, as the hens did not have to forage for food and
water, it was all provided within 12 inches of the nest box. I also felt the
exercise would do them good. Those who saw the hens, after they had reared a
nest of young, will agree that in general you could show the birds with regard
to their presentation. Obviously it would not be good practice as you would be
putting an added burden on them.
In general, I find that I have far
less bother leaving the hens on their own, than I do, when cock and hen are left
together. In most cases the hens sit tighter, as they are not pestered by the
cocks. There are less broken eggs due to "scrambling" and as I said, using
marbles, I have found it is generally the cock who plays football with the eggs.
I also find that the hens normally keep the chicks very well fed, which is not
always the case when the cocks are left with them. Once had a cock who denied
the hen access to the nest box when the chicks were three weeks old, and I wound
up removing him.
Second round using same hens
If you want to use some of the hens
for a second round of chicks, or want to change the cock birds around, I found
the following method worked in most cases. When the eldest chick was 28 days
old, the desired cock bird was re-introduced into the breeding cage. Now I must
stress once again that you must be able to spend a lot of time with your birds,
as you will have to stay in close attendance. Initially the cock is left in for
15 minutes, during this time most hens bicker a little and fight off initial
advances, but sometimes hens actually go over to the cocks and mating occurs.
The following day I repeat the procedure but leave for 30 minutes. After this it
is safe to leave the cock, moving him twice a day to the different hens The
cocks are left with the hens to rear one round, so they keep the breeding
instinct.
Points to note.
In some cases I had to remove chicks whilst mating took place, as the presence
of these put the cocks off. Watch carefully if the hen accepts the cock into the
nest box straight away, as he might well attack the young. I only had one
incident of this.
Syrup of Buckthorn
Prior to pairing up, I follow a
procedure I learnt from Gurney Smith (Past President of L&SC BS), all birds are
put on Syrup of Buckthorn for two weeks, at the rate of one teaspoon (5 ml.) to
a pint of water. It acts as a mild purgative and it is very rewarding to see the
birds droppings all turn a rich black and white. I find that using this, the
birds become very active and alert.
Feeding is as follows: two-thirds
canary to one-third mixed millets. To this I add cod-liver oil in the form of
Vitapet at the rate of one teaspoon (5 ml.) to 3 lb. (1.4 kgs.) of seed and also
add 1 dessertspoon of P.Y.M. (yeast) powder. EMP Egg Food is fed to all rearing
hens and the chicks, once they are removed from the parents.
Time consuming
Grated carrot is made available once a
week, along with lettuce leaves or broccoli, but no other green food is
supplied. Grit pots in the young bird training cages are replenished every day,
as I find they devour this. I also replenish the grit in the breeding cages and
flights every week; the old grit is scattered on the flight floor.
This method of breeding is far too
time consuming to repeat year after year, but it does let one get a footing in
the Fancy for a modest outlay, providing one's choice of initial stock is
correct. As I said earlier, we all need that touch of luck to succeed on the
show bench.
Original text Copyright © 1983 Revised
1998, S B Richardson
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